Milho crioulo é PANC! Patrimônio genético e cultural
Ah, pronto, a galera do Mato no Prato endoidou de vez.
Vai dizer agora que milho é PANC?
O milho é um dos três cereais mais produzidos e mais consumidos no mundo, junto com o trigo e o arroz. O Brasil é o terceiro maior produtor de milho no mundo, atrás apenas dos Estados Unidos e da China. Nossa estimativa é produzir cerca de 119 milhões de toneladas desse grão para a safra 2020/2021, em cerca de 20 milhões de hectares em área cultivada. Sendo assim, é claro que você deve estar se perguntando: “como é que pode o milho ser uma PANC???” É simples: existem milhares de tipos de milho! Quantos você consome no seu cotidiano?
A história do uso do milho pelos seres humanos começou há milhares de anos, quando o milho nem era “milho” ainda! Essa história começa com o teosinto, um ancestral selvagem do milho. Aquela planta era bastante diferente do que é o milho hoje. A espiga tinha poucos grãos ao longo de um raminho, não formava um sabugo… bastante parecido com um raminho de trigo, e ao invés de um conjunto de palhas protegendo a espiga, cada grão era coberto totalmente por uma palha bem dura. Não era um produto de fácil manuseio e consumo, mas as pessoas ao longo dos milênio foram selecionando e selecionando, plantando sementes apenas daquelas plantas que apresentavam características desejáveis, até chegarmos ao milho como ele é hoje.
O milho selvagem ancestral (teosinto) e o milho atual:
Observe que cada grãozinho do teosinto é embrulhado em uma palha individual… e como os grãos são poucos e pequenos. Realmente não devia ser fácil manusear e consumir esse milho selvagem!
Durante esse processo de domesticação, o milho, que surgiu no México, foi se expandindo não somente para as américas, mas para o mundo todo, e se tornou um cereal muito importante na alimentação. Um dos motivos que contribuíram para isso, é que onde o milho foi chegando, ele foi sendo selecionado de acordo com as características do clima e do solo do local, e também de acordo com a cultura e as preferências alimentares dos povos. Assim, o milho se diversificou em milhares de tipos, com texturas, cores, tamanhos, formatos, aromas, sabores, nutrientes e tolerâncias ambientais diferentes.
O a perda da diversidade de milhos começou lá por volta de 1800, quando dois tipos de milho foram cruzados e deram origem a um híbrido que para a surpresa dos produtores, apresentou espiga e grãos com características muito favoráveis para a produção, para o manuseio e para o consumo, além de alto rendimento. Esse é aquele milho amarelo que se espalhou pelo mundo todo, e passou a ser cada vez mais cultivado, reduzindo a diversidade nos plantios de milhos. Mas esse quadro piorou mesmo foi no contexto da revolução verde, quando os processos de melhoramento deixaram de ser baseados em seleção de características favoráveis, e passaram a ser baseados em engenharia genética. O milho transgênico vem eliminando a diversidade de milho em nossos campos, não somente por ser plantado em grandes monoculturas, mas também porque seu pólen viaja com o vento e contamina plantações de milho não transgênico.
Quando as sementes não são geneticamente modificadas ou transgênicas e não passou pela apropriação da indústria, chamamos de sementes crioulas. Diferente das sementes transgênicas que, muitas vezes, dão origem a plantas estéreis, as sementes crioulas germinam e dão origem a plantas férteis, que produzem novas sementes, que alimentam suas comunidades e podem ser plantadas novamente iniciando um novo ciclo. As sementes crioulas são passadas geração após geração, em suas comunidades, enquanto também vão sendo selecionadas de acordo com as condições ambientais e climáticas locais e os gostos e necessidades dos seus cultivadores. Assim, essas sementes guardam enorme variabilidade genética, e guardam também tradição e cultura, e por isso são um tesouro inestimável.
Por conta de sua importância, hoje existem grupos regionais de “guardiões e guardiãs de sementes crioulas”, que resgatam essas sementes, assim como os saberes tradicionais e ancestrais sobre práticas de cultivo em harmonia com a natureza, com a diversidade, com o ambiente. Esses grupos preservam essas sementes nos chamados Bancos de Germoplasma de sementes de milho crioulo, onde estão armazenadas coleções com milhares de variedades, e também trocam sementes com outros grupos, fazem feiras de trocas de sementes e enviam sementes a produtores, para disseminar tais boas práticas de produção e colocar esse milho tão rico nas nossas refeições!
Existem milhares de variedades de milho crioulo. Só o Banco de Germoplasma da Embrapa tem mais de 4000 amostras! Você consegue imaginar tamanha variedade?
Alguns tipos de milho crioulo:
Essa é uma amostra bem pequena de tipos de milho crioulo! Eles podem vir em diversas cores, ou rajados, em diversos tamanhos e formas, com grãos em cunha, mais arredondados, ou mais compridos… É muita diversidade, minha gente! Foto: Projeto Crioulo
Por isso o É PANC desta vez está um pouco diferente: não vamos falar de propriedades da PANC, pois os milhos crioulos são muitos, e muito diversos. Basicamente, o que podemos generalizar sobre as propriedades dos milhos em geral, é que são ricos em carboidratos e fibras, especialmente as fibras insolúveis, e por isso são excelentes para o trânsito intestinal, para a redução dos níveis de colesterol, e fornecem bastante energia. Existe milho crioulo de diversas cores, e para as mais diversas finalidades: pipoca, farinha, canjiquinha, fubá, e para cozimento, e eles realmente trazem sabores e saberes muito variados. Depois que descobri os milhos crioulos, provar variedades diferentes se tornou uma experiência muito transformadora, que eu recomendo muito! Comer alimentos crioulos é também um ato de resistência, diante do sistema de produção cruel que está aí!
Por isso, se você tem interesse em consumir milhos crioulos, a gente dá a maior força. No Brasil temos sim muitos produtores e muitos produtos baseados em milho crioulo, que você pode encontrar facilmente na internet, inclusive aqui no Mato no Prato. Em parceria com o Projeto Crioulo, que vem desempenhando um importante papel no resgate, na preservação e na distribuição do milho crioulo, estamos com vários produtos maravilhosos lá na nossa loja. O MST também é um grande guardião e produtor de milho e sementes crioulas, se houver feiras do MST na sua cidade, será um bom lugar para encontrar milho crioulo. Se você estiver em São Paulo, pode encontrar milho crioulo na Feira Kantuta aos domingos. No Rio Grande do Sul também há muitas feiras de venda de milho e troca de sementes, a exemplo da Feira de Sementes Crioulas e Tecnologias Populares de Canguçu, Feira de Sementes de Pelotas, Feira de Sementes Binacional Brasil/Uruguai, entre muitas outras. Enfim, é só procurar um pouquinho na internet, que eu garanto que você encontra!
E aí, que tal uma pipoca crioula pra temperar com gostinho de proteção do patrimônio genético e cultural da nossa biodiversidade?
Respostas de 25
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